Vintage Audemars Piguet Huitième 18ct Gold Automatic Watch | c.1990

An elegant Audemars Piguet Huitième automatic wristwatch, dating to circa 1990 and crafted in solid 18ct yellow gold.

The Huitième represents a wonderfully understated side of vintage Audemars Piguet. Measuring a very wearable 32mm, this example features a beautifully proportioned round 18ct gold case with the Audemars Piguet name engraved prominently into the bezel.

The clean silvered dial is finished with applied gold baton hour markers, slender gold hands and centre seconds, with the date displayed through an aperture at three o’clock beneath the applied AP monogram. It’s a restrained design that feels unmistakably late-20th-century AP without being overly formal.

Inside is a signed 31-jewel automatic mechanical movement, which has been fully serviced and is ready to wear.

The watch is fitted to a black leather strap and retains its signed solid 18ct gold Audemars Piguet buckle. The case, dial, movement and buckle are all signed.

At approximately 51.7g gross, it has a reassuring weight for such an elegant 32mm dress watch. The case displays surface scuffs and marks consistent with age and previous wear, while the dial remains in good condition. I would leave those marks rather than polish the case heavily, particularly given the crisp bezel engraving.

It is also accompanied by an unusually complete collection of accessories, including its Audemars Piguet presentation case, outer box, pouch and instruction booklet.

A lovely example of a less commonly encountered vintage Audemars Piguet, combining a solid-gold case, automatic movement and exceptionally clean design in proportions that work beautifully today.