Few watches are as instantly recognisable as a Rolex.
From understated vintage Precision watches to the classic Datejust, Oyster Perpetual and iconic sports models, Rolex has produced an extraordinary variety of watches during its long history. That variety is also one of the great pleasures of buying pre owned.
It can, however, make choosing the right watch surprisingly complicated.
Two Rolex watches carrying the same reference can differ considerably in age, condition, dial, bracelet, provenance and originality. With vintage examples, those differences are often part of their charm, but they can also have a significant effect on desirability and value.
If you are considering buying your first pre owned Rolex, or adding another to an existing collection, this guide explains some of the things we believe are worth understanding before you buy.
Why buy a pre owned Rolex?
There is something particularly appealing about a watch that has already lived a life.
Buying pre owned opens up decades of Rolex design that simply are not represented in the current collection. Smaller cases, unusual dials, manually wound movements, precious metal bracelets and proportions that feel distinctly different from many contemporary watches all become possibilities.
It also means that no two vintage watches are quite the same.
A watch from the 1950s may have acquired gentle patination to its dial. A gold bracelet may show the softness that comes from decades of wear. An older case may bear small marks from its previous life.
For many collectors, these are not necessarily imperfections. They are part of the character of the watch.
The important thing is knowing what you are buying.
Vintage Rolex or pre owned Rolex: what is the difference?
The terms are frequently used interchangeably, but they do not mean quite the same thing.
Pre owned Rolex simply means a Rolex that has previously been owned.
Vintage Rolex generally describes an older watch, although there is no universally agreed age at which a watch officially becomes vintage but we class any piece over 10 years old as a vintage item.
A five year old Datejust is pre owned.
A Rolex Precision from the 1960s would ordinarily be described as both vintage and pre owned.
There is also an important distinction between a pre owned Rolex sold by an independent specialist and a Rolex Certified Pre Owned watch.
Rolex Certified Pre Owned is Rolex’s own programme. Watches within that programme are authenticated and serviced by Rolex and are sold through participating Official Rolex Retailers with a two year international guarantee.
Independent vintage and pre owned specialists operate separately from that programme.
Understanding Rolex reference numbers
One of the first things we look for when assessing a Rolex is its reference number.
Think of the reference as the identity of the model or configuration rather than the identity of the individual watch.
For example, two watches may share the same Rolex reference while having different individual serial numbers.
The reference can help establish the model family and expected characteristics of a watch. This becomes particularly useful with vintage Rolex, where numerous variations were produced over many decades.
When shopping online, a good listing should therefore provide the reference number whenever it is known.
It gives buyers something concrete to research and makes it considerably easier to compare like with like.
What does the Rolex serial number tell you?
Unlike a reference number, a serial number relates to the individual watch.
On older Rolex watches, serial number ranges can be used to estimate the period in which the case was produced. It is important to treat historical serial number charts as approximate rather than definitive manufacture dates, as Rolex does not publish a complete official public production date database for vintage watches.
This is why you will often see reputable vintage dealers describe a watch as:
circa 1965
rather than claiming an exact production date.
With a vintage watch, several pieces of evidence may be considered together, including the serial number, reference, movement, case markings and the known production period of that particular model.
The dial matters enormously
If you spend enough time looking at vintage Rolex watches, you will quickly discover just how important the dial can be.
Dial colour, typography, hour markers, lume, signatures and overall condition can all influence the character and collectability of a watch.
Originality is particularly important to some collectors.
However, the subject is not completely black and white.
Original dials
A well preserved original dial is often highly desirable, particularly when its appearance is consistent with the age of the watch.
Ageing can include subtle colour changes, spotting or patination.
Restored dials
Some vintage watches have had their dials professionally restored or refinished during their lifetime.
That does not automatically make the watch undesirable.
There are buyers who actively prefer the cleaner appearance of a professionally restored dial, particularly when buying a watch primarily to wear rather than as a purist collector’s piece.
What matters is transparency.
If a dial is known to have been restored, the seller should say so.
Condition: do not expect a vintage watch to look brand new
This sounds obvious, but it is one of the most important points when buying vintage watches online.
A 50 or 60 year old watch has usually been worn.
Look carefully at photographs of the:
case
bezel
crystal
dial
crown
case back
bracelet or strap
clasp
Small scratches, marks and signs of age are entirely normal.
More important is whether the overall condition has been represented accurately.
A good vintage watch should not need to masquerade as a new one.
Has the Rolex case been polished?
Polishing is another subject capable of starting a surprisingly passionate argument amongst watch collectors.
During servicing, watch cases were historically often polished to remove scratches and restore their appearance.
Consequently, many older watches have been polished at some point.
Heavy polishing can soften the original shape and edges of a case. For serious collectors seeking particularly original examples, this can affect desirability.
For somebody wanting an attractive vintage Rolex to wear, a sympathetically polished case may be considerably less important.
As with so many aspects of vintage watches, context matters.
The movement is just as important as the exterior
A beautiful dial is easy to photograph.
A healthy movement is less obvious.
Mechanical watches contain components that wear over time, lubricants that deteriorate and seals that age. A watch that appears cosmetically excellent can still require significant mechanical attention.
Ask whether the watch has been inspected or serviced and whether there is any guarantee covering its mechanical operation.
This becomes particularly important with older watches where replacement components may be more difficult to source.
Does a vintage Rolex need its original box and papers?
No.
This is one of the most common misconceptions amongst people buying their first vintage luxury watch.
Original boxes and paperwork are wonderful to have and a genuine complete set can command a premium.
But the further back in time you travel, the less surprising their absence becomes.
People simply did not always retain watch packaging and paperwork for 40, 50 or 60 years.
A beautiful vintage Rolex without its original box and papers can still be an excellent watch.
Rather than dismissing it automatically, assess the watch itself, its condition, the seller and the evidence supporting what it is.
Should you buy a Rolex with a replacement strap?
With vintage dress watches, absolutely, provided it is clearly disclosed.
Leather straps are consumable items.
A leather strap fitted several decades ago would not necessarily be something you would want to wear today anyway, especially from a hygiene point of view.
Many vintage Rolex watches are therefore sold on high quality replacement leather straps while retaining an original Rolex buckle where one is available.
Bracelets are slightly different because an original Rolex bracelet can form a much more significant part of the watch’s identity and value.
Vintage Rolex sizes can be surprisingly small
This catches modern buyers out all the time.
Contemporary watches have conditioned us to think of 36mm, 40mm and above as completely ordinary sizes.
Historically, considerably smaller watches were common.
A vintage gentleman’s Rolex might measure around 30mm to 34mm, while ladies’ watches can be much smaller (15mm to 20mm)
Do not judge those measurements solely from a number on a screen.
Vintage watches often wear very differently because of their case shape, bezel, dial opening and bracelet.
This is particularly true of precious metal watches, where a smaller case combined with an integrated gold bracelet can have considerably more wrist presence than the diameter suggests.
Manual wind versus automatic Rolex watches
Not every Rolex is an Oyster Perpetual.
Rolex produced many beautiful manually wound watches, including numerous Precision models and elegant precious metal dress watches.
A manual wind watch requires the wearer to wind the movement periodically using the crown.
An automatic watch uses the movement of the wearer’s wrist to wind the movement through a rotor.
Rolex’s Perpetual rotor was introduced in 1931 and became one of the important developments in the company’s history.
Neither system is inherently the better choice for a vintage collector.
In fact, manually wound vintage Rolex watches can offer some particularly elegant proportions and fascinating designs.
What about the Rolex Oyster?
The Oyster is central to Rolex history.
Rolex introduced its Oyster case in 1926, creating a sealed case system designed to protect the movement from water and dust. The company subsequently introduced its Perpetual self winding rotor in 1931.
Those developments ultimately gave rise to the Oyster Perpetual family that remains fundamental to Rolex today.
But there is an important caveat when buying vintage.
Never assume an old Rolex is waterproof.
Even if the watch was originally designed as a waterproof Oyster, decades of age, servicing, replacement seals and wear can alter its resistance considerably.
Rolex itself notes that exceptions concerning waterproofness may apply to some of the oldest watches even within its Certified Pre Owned programme.
Unless a vintage watch has been specifically pressure tested and guaranteed to a stated level, keep it away from water.
The Rolex Datejust: one of the great pre owned choices
If there is one model that demonstrates the longevity of Rolex design particularly well, it is the Datejust.
Introduced in 1945, the Datejust combined an automatic movement with a date displayed through a window at 3 o’clock.
Over the decades it has appeared in an extraordinary number of configurations.
Steel, yellow gold, white gold, two tone, smooth bezels, fluted bezels, Jubilee bracelets, Oyster bracelets, diamond dials, Roman numerals, baton markers and numerous dial colours have all contributed to an enormous variety of Datejust watches.
For a pre owned buyer, that variety is fantastic.
Rather than there being one definitive Datejust, there is likely to be a Datejust that suits your particular taste.
Do not overlook ladies’ vintage Rolex watches
This is an area of the vintage market we particularly love at My Golden Finds.
Smaller Rolex watches can contain an extraordinary amount of craftsmanship.
Vintage ladies’ models can be found with beautiful mechanical movements, unusual dials and exceptionally intricate gold bracelets, often displaying a degree of jewellery making that is quite different from contemporary watch design.
There is also an increasing tendency to ignore traditional gender labels altogether.
A 26mm watch does not have to be a “ladies’ watch”, just as a 36mm watch does not have to belong to a man.
Buy according to what looks good on your wrist.
Gold Rolex watches deserve particular attention
Vintage precious metal Rolex watches occupy an interesting position between fine jewellery and horology.
Some have conventional leather straps.
Others feature beautifully constructed gold bracelets that make the watch feel as much like a piece of jewellery as a timepiece.
When considering a gold Rolex, look at more than the case diameter.
The gold purity, bracelet construction, total weight, clasp, hallmarks and wrist size can all be relevant.
For older British market watches, you may also encounter cases or bracelets bearing UK assay marks.
These details can help tell the wider story of the watch.
What should you ask before buying a pre owned Rolex?
Before purchasing, you should be able to establish the basics.
- What is the Rolex reference?
- What is the approximate age?
- Is the movement manual wind or automatic?
- Has the watch been inspected or serviced?
- Is the dial believed to be original or has it been restored?
- Is the bracelet original to the watch?
- Are there any replacement components?
- What is the case diameter?
- What wrist size will the bracelet accommodate?
- Does the watch come with its original box or papers?
- What guarantee does the seller provide?
- What is the seller’s returns policy?
A reputable seller should be comfortable answering sensible questions.
How can you tell whether a Rolex is genuine?
There is no single photograph, serial number lookup or internet checklist that can definitively authenticate every Rolex.
Counterfeit watches have become increasingly sophisticated and genuine watches can also contain components replaced during decades of servicing.
Be wary of buying an expensive watch based purely on a handful of photographs and the promise that “the serial number checks out”.
A serial number alone does not authenticate a watch.
Buy the seller as well as the watch
It is an old piece of watch collecting advice because it remains good advice.
Look at who is actually selling the watch.
Does the business specialise in watches?
- Are there clear photographs?
- Is the condition described properly?
- Are important details disclosed?
- Can you contact a real person?
- Is there a returns policy?
- Does the watch have a mechanical guarantee?
- Does the seller have an established history and independent customer reviews?
With vintage watches, expertise and aftercare matter.
A saving of a few hundred pounds can quickly become irrelevant if a watch immediately requires an expensive overhaul.
Is a pre owned Rolex a good investment?
We prefer to be cautious with the word investment.
Certain Rolex references have appreciated substantially over time and some rare vintage watches have become highly collectible.
That does not mean every Rolex will increase in value.
Markets change. Fashion changes. Condition matters. Originality matters. Rarity matters. The price you pay matters.
A Rolex should therefore be bought first and foremost because you love the watch.
If it retains or increases its value over the years, consider that a bonus.
Which pre owned Rolex should you buy?
There is no universal answer.
If you want a versatile everyday classic, a Datejust or Oyster Perpetual may appeal.
If you love the proportions and character of mid century watches, explore vintage Oyster, Precision and Oyster Precision models.
If jewellery is as important to you as watchmaking, look at vintage precious metal Rolex watches and the extraordinary bracelet designs found on some ladies’ models.
And if you already know the exact reference you want, condition and originality may matter more than simply finding the cheapest example.
The best vintage watch is not necessarily the one somebody on the internet tells you is most collectible.
It is the one you still find yourself looking at when you should really have put your phone down half an hour ago.
We know the feeling.
Buying a Vintage or Pre Owned Rolex from My Golden Finds
At My Golden Finds, we specialise in carefully selected pre owned and vintage luxury watches and fine jewellery, with a particular love for unusual pieces from Rolex, Cartier, Omega, Piaget and other leading watch houses.
Our collection ranges from classic Rolex Oyster and Datejust models to beautifully proportioned vintage Precision watches and unusual precious metal pieces that blur the line between fine watchmaking and jewellery.
Our watches are inspected and authenticated, with servicing undertaken by an independent UK horologist where required. We aim to describe age, condition, restoration and accessories as clearly as possible so that you know what you are buying.
Every vintage watch has already had a story.
Finding the next person to wear it is the best part.